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03.07.2013
Projects
… unclimbed chunks of rocks with some kind of structure in it. It sounds so simple, but exactly those simple things make life hard for climbers.
First: there are so many of them on this planet. Second: there are times when I see projects on every piece of rock or building I pass by. Some of them I forget, and some of them burn a picture in my memory forever. Over the years too many pictures have accumulated in my memory. Now turning 35, I sometimes have the feeling that maybe not every idea which pops up in my mind can be climbed after all.
 
"My whole life is a project", I stated in the last issue of KLETTERN magazine. There is no other sense to it, just what you put in personally. Objectively, it doesn't mean anything really. And still, as I do here right now, we try to make something special out of it. It's just intuition! An idea slowly forming in the mind, materializing. The rational brain is analyzing, and the ego can support this "project". At the end, your own rational self and ego can be your biggest enemy, and you learn once again that it's all about inspiration. What drives you up a boulder? 
 
Inspiration is the main reason, that I am more motivated to open boulders instead of repeating them. Repeating an existing line, knowing that it has been done, is a different game. It was great to climb Carlo Traversi's "Heritage" fb.8b+ and opening the obvious sitstart to "Kings of Sonlerto" ( now called: "Fauler Willi" 8b/+ ) But it's not the same kind of sensation. At the end of this years Ticino saison, I felt a kind of frustration. My main project remained unclimbed again. There had been days when I was close to link all moves, followed by days when I couldn`t do one single move. I am sure it can be climbed, but right now it remains a visionary dream ...
 
Three years ago my friend Torstein showed me an amazing piece of rock on a lonely island near the Kommune of Osen. In all my years bouldering, I had never come across such a boulder - a lifetime project. Best quality Norway granite, powerful, diversified moves on perfect features, beautiful  scenery, and, to top everything off, the obvious line through a 10 meter roof and topping out on a 15 m boulder. Truly a big piece of a rock and to me the best boulder in the world. It can't get better. But three years ago, it was a visionary dream. I couldn`t imagine to link that many hard moves into one boulder problem.On June 11 in the late afternoon, I had the biggest fight in my life and a dream came true: "SHANTARAM" (more infos to follow soon.)
 
At times, the number of my projects is slowly declining, but with every departure it increases again. Right now I am pretty relaxed and will give my body a little rest. But I am already preparing for my next adventure: it will start in Turkey and should end in India. I will try to update my homepage with regular reports from the different countries along the Silk Road and inform you about my trip.
In the meanwhile enjoy the beautiful pictures from Stefan Kürzi who visited me in Val Bavona this spring.
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