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01.10.2017
"INTO THE SUN"
Exactly a year ago, it was still hard to lift up my iron pan from the oven.
Exactly a year ago, it was still hard to lift up my iron pan from the oven and in December 2016 I was able to hold my body weight for a few seconds only. The lookout from the doctors and specialists didn't give me much enchourgement ... I left modern science behind me and touched new grounds and went different ways of rehabilitation. When it comes to nerves and recovering science has still not much clue about it. I kept on training and working on my mind and body and learned different ways of rehabilitation.
Murgtal, Switzerland
February 2017
I didn't have big ambitions for bouldering. I was running around in the forest and looked at some old climbs and projects. Without any expectations I put on my climbing shoes and place the crashpads. I haven't been bouldering now for a long time. Surprisingly the lack of power in my right hand wasn't so bad on the rock. On the trainingsboard I still felt like a "beginner". Detached and full of happiness I keep on bouldering, suddenly realizing that I left the crux move of an old project behind me. Overwhelmed, (totally happy) I stay below this huge wall, not sure what has happened. A miracle? I just couldn't believe it. Till today, I have no clue what actually happened on that winterday in "Murgtal", a bouldering area near the beautiful Walensee. But 14 months after the accident, I felt the "fire" again :-)  Only a week later I grabbed the 1st  ropeless ascent of "Fred Nicoles" "Murgtal Tag & Nacht" (8a+; Fred did this boulder on toprope!) and on the same day I started working on my own combination, which I had an eye on already years ago. I wanted to link another hard boulderproblem (6moves,  8a+) with Fred's testpiece. The pure joy beeing outside again released immense power. It seemed, that my body remembered the old days :-) 

Every day I got stronger. On March 3, 2017 I linked those two boulderproblems. 18 hard moves on small crimps. The hardest move comes right at the start (move 4), but the real crux comes right at the end, seven meters above the ground. I was more than happy with this success. But still I was looking up the wall above me. My climbers heart wasn't happy with the "summit" ... the ending of the boulder on a good jug. The upper part of the wall was often wet, also the rock didn't look like a bomber. I checked the line, cleaned the wall from loose rocks. How should I protect this? I just didn't  want to place bolts on a beautiful boulder. I borrowed some friends and found "good" placements 9 meters above the ground. Just the rock was not a 100% at this spot. To "guaranty" more safety, I had to place 4 friends at one spot. I also needed very experienced belayers – there was a high chance to touch the ground, in case of a fall right at the end. Big thanks to Pascal Büsser and Alexander Luger, who joined and supported me on this project. Both of them are experienced trad climbers and know what to do when it gets risky. I only fell once on the lead. The other time a hold broke, and found myself hanging in the ropes, just after I had placed the gear.
489 days after my accident. A beautiful day. Sun is shining and the whole wall is dry. We had a fund day bouldering in Murg. Its warm, but I want to give it a try. I place the crashpads, take the rope and the gear. A last check with Pascal and I start climbing. 45 minutes later I stay on my "summit"  :-) 
Finally there is the question about the difficulty. After this long process of rehabilitation its even more difficult to think about it – because its not important to me anymore - never has been. Such a combination of bouldering and trad climbing is new territory, not just for myself. But when the difficulty of the boulderproblem get confirmed, this climb will be one of the hardest trad climbs in the world. Which number will be behind "into the sun" doesn't really matter to me. With this first ascent a dream got reality, and it cant be measured with a number. I am grateful und happy that I am back in climbing again and this kingline sets new standards.  
12 months ago, I sometimes didnt believe in it :-)
 
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