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21.05.2012
The Normopath
Springtime is coming to its end, the hot summertimes are waiting and I noticed that I didn't make any "announcements" for a very long time.
Maybe some of you read the interview in the latest CLIMAX magazine, where I voiced some critical thoughts on climbing and bouldering in general. Apart from that, I was „off the sonar“. Of course I was bouldering and climbing all the time. I was very motivated and wanted to focus on different old lines I had tried now and then. However, after having found their solutions my motivation always vanished and I jumped onto the next problem. I started the winter season with an old project near Feldkirch. The moves felt much easier than the years before and I felt confident to climb the entire project sooner or later. But as it happens so often, things turned out to be different when the strongest winter in 10 years hit the Alps, covering the boulders under a ton of snow. I was contemplating a training winter and trying my luck in springtime, but then changed plans and put up my winter domicile in Switzerland's southern part. There, I also have many lines waiting to be climbed. When opening  "The gilty of the hilti (fb.8a+)" last year, I already spotted three holds on the right side of the wall. Three possible ways to do the crux move into the "Hilti". To make it short: I worked the sequence (one move) over two months before I finally found a way of doing the crux. I had three more good days at the end of the season, coming close to, but not finishing this project. That's still a little success, as next year I will already know, how to do this project :-) Regardless, motivation was kind of down.
 
While driving back from Ticino to the north side of the Alps, I was wondering if there was still snow in the Murg area. Also there I had some "unfinished business". Indeed, the snow was gone and, to my surprise, my project from last autumn was completely dry. It felt so good to try something different after such a long time. With no expectations, the moves felt much better than months before and one week later I opened a new great problem: "THE NORMOPATH". (This new problem is a combination of an Fb.8a Boulder into another Fb.8a+ Problem. So the "NORMOPATH" could be a fb.8b+ trav.) Motivation was back, and just a few days later I opened another problem in the area. In memoriam of a good friend, I named this problem "4ever-PP-oaba-aui", and those 7 moves check in around 8a+/8b. In April the weather was getting worse again. Hot days, followed by rain and snow again made me search for dry places to climb outside. I remembered a big cave near the Walensee, where Fred Nicole had put up a stunning hard route years ago. In the same cave he also opened a stunning boulder problem, called "RAGTIME", Fb.8b+. It starts with a hard 10 move boulder problem into a big pocket and than 14 more moves on amazing features to a big jug on the lip of the cave. To be honest, I never really liked roofclimbing so much, but "RAGTIME" is just an incredible climb with interesting movements on crazy features. Two weeks ago I accomplished the first repeat of this Boulder :-)
 
You do not find pictures of these new problems in the gallery yet, but you can find some on my facebook page. The new pictures in the gallery tell a little winter story, with some shots from great Boulders I already did in the past. (The guilty of the Hilti, (8a+), "Neverending story II (8a)" or from "Kings of Sonlerto" (8b+) and some more. GERHARD HEIDORN is a great photographer since 33 years!! He was working as a Journalist for different magazines (Hannoversche Zeitung, Reuters ...) and was on expeditions in Antarctica, Canada, Tibet, Buthan and other places. His passion are the mountains all over the world and climbing is part of it. Gerhard visited me in Switzerland. We made a little "tour the Swiss" and he made beautifull pictures. ENJOY !! 
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