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DREAMTIME
Tessin, Switzerland
The world’s hardest boulder problem of that time, Dreamtime was the first boulder graded with Fb.8C, opened by legendary Fred Nicole. With this ascent I caught widespread public attention and suddenly stood in the limelight.
BOULDERER OF THE YEAR
Climbing Magazine, USA
In 2003 I was honored for my achievements by renowned Climbing magazine and became the first European climber to win the title: “Boulderer Of The Year“.
ANAM CARA
Galtür, Austria
In 2005 doctors told me for the first time that I will never will be able to crimp on small edges with my left hand again because of a bad finger injury. They told me I will never do hard boulders again, but two years later I proved myself that I can hang on the wildest crimpers again and work on impossible looking features. Anam Cara was big step in my climbing career and mental development … plus, it was one of the hardest climbs in the world back in the day.
FROM THE DIRT GROWS THE FLOWER
Chironico, Switzerland
Back in 2009: Worldwide, there have been only a few boulder problems and climbers who climbed in the grade 8C. In these days there have been lots of grade discussions within the climbing scene and rumors spreading the web. After making hard first ascents in my home areas of Austria, it was about time to check out “the new standard” put up by US climber Dave Graham and give it a try.
MOLECULE MAN
Berlin, Germany
That would be a great picture my friend told me, while we were on a sightseeing tour in Berlin. A few days later I climbed the Molecule Man statue in the early morning. It was a special event in my life and the view from the top over Berlin was just a unique ... so was the boat ride. 🙂
SECRETS
Switzerland
A two-hour hike into unknown mountain regions and this crazy rock formation was mine. One of my personal top dream lines, unrepeated!
SHANTARAM
Osen, Norway
Many boulders have inspired me. Shantaram on the small island of Osen, Norway blew my mind. Linking its 23 holds together seemed utopian to me during my first five-week trip in 2012 but inspired by the unique mix of ocean and rocks a year later, I finally conquered the exit handle after another five weeks of intense attempts.
29.DOTS
Valle dell' Orco, Italy
For many 29.DOTS (Fb.8a+) would have been a sport climb, for me it was the tallest boulder I ever climbed. A very special moment in my climbing career with special preparation to climb such a tall boulder and difficult line without a rope.
INTO THE SUN
Murgtal, Switzerland
After my bad accident on December 29th, 2015 doctors told me I would never climb hard again. 489 days after this fall I succeeded in making the first free ascent. Into the Sun is graded 8c+, as such it checks in as one of the hardest trad climbs in the world, but, far more importantly, it marks an important comeback.
IL COLONEL
Valle dell' Orco
Il Colonel, in the Italian region of Piemont, is an uncompromising dream of a climb. Italian Niky Ceria put up the standstart back in 2017, and right after climbing the standstart, I started looking for a way to solve this sitstart problem. I already had a possible sequence in my mind back in 2015, but I was just too weak after the accident to do so. It remained a dream until 2019. After lots of training and rehabilitation I finally was able to add two super hard moves to the existing boulder problem.
GRENZENLOS ( 8B trad )
Valle dell' Orco
Physically I knew that I can do this intimidating line – the crux was a doubtful protection with the risk of a potential ground fall from the top. I name this route „Grenzenlos“ ( no borders, boundless), because when it appears to us that external circumstances are limiting our liberty of action, the nature of the mind wants us to overcome these limitations.
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@bergwelten
FOTO Jacobo Larcher
FIRST TRY 8B(+)
Rakchham, Indian Himalaya
One of the hardest single moves on this planet. Seven years for 135cm of climbing sound very crazy, but it was worth to do so: The line, hidden deep in the Rakchham forest is one of the best boulders in the world. The shape, the rock quality, the setting & the holds are just so pure & unique
FOTO: Ray Demski
COSMIC GEOGRAPHY
Sethan, Indian Himalaya
Whenever I visit an area, it´s not the existing routes that catch my eyes; the lines that catch my attention are the ones that no one climbed before. This piece of rock is a dream of a climb and I am just thankful that I was able to make the first ascent of this unique sequence.
