( meaning: no borders, boundless…)
by bernd zangerl
Whenever I visit an area, it´s not the existing routes that catch my eye; the lines that catch my attention are the ones that no one climbed before. I enjoy working on something that isn`t explored yet, not knowing I would ever succeed. This kind of inspiration keeps motivation high and to this day nothing has changed for me in this perpective.
End of October I opend my most beautiful climb and because of the unorthodox protection, it might be one of the „wildest“ too. I wanted to boulder the 10m wall, but it turned out that falling in the upper crux right was not an option. I could have built a landing zone or organize 10 crashpads which has become „normal“ in the community but I am not a friend of these tendencies.
Adapting the challenge to a personal comfort zone would have made the first ascent easier and more quicker for sure. But, isn`t mother nature the director and sets the level of challenge for us, also in terms of protection ? Physically I knew straight away that I can do this project, the crux was the mind. I prefer to work alone or with my best friend on mental & physical challenges like this. I am oldschool, but choosing the longer way also means a more intense examination of the project.
I name this route „Grenzenlos“ ( no borders, boundless ), because when it appears to us that external circumstances are limiting our liberty of action, the nature of the mind wants us to overcome this limitations. The mind has no limits.
Big thanks to Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher who supported me on this beautiful journey.
Bernd Zangerl
Images: Jacopo Larcher/jacopolarcher.com
